Oud (agarwood): what it is, what it smells like and what its note means in perfume

The 2022 scientific review “Agarwood—The Fragrant Molecules of a Wounded Tree” links agarwood formation to injury in an Aquilaria tree and to biotic or abiotic stress. The tree's defence response includes oleoresin production; as the resinous wood forms, it darkens. The review lists India, New Guinea, China's Hainan Island and countries in Southeast Asia as areas where Aquilaria occurs.

As you read this guide, distinguish the name of the raw material from the scent description: “agarwood” means the resinous wood, “agarwood oil” means the raw material, and here we use “oud accord” for a constructed impression of the scent of oud. This working distinction is not a conclusion about the composition of any specific product. Note names do not tell us whether a formula contains natural agarwood oil.

The review cited above quotes an estimate that about 10% of wild Aquilaria trees are infected and produce resin. This is an estimate from an earlier source presented in the review, not a count conducted by us or one confirming the current status of all populations.

The review separately describes an experiment by “The Rainforest Project” (TRP) in Vietnam: trees were drilled, their wounds were kept open with plastic tubes, and chemicals were used to stimulate resin production. It is specifically this experiment that is reported to have produced agarwood ten times faster than it forms naturally. We do not extend this ratio to all artificial induction technologies, nor draw from it a general conclusion about raw-material quality or the legality of trade.

IFRA's 2020 Fragrance Ingredient Glossary gives the descriptors “Woody,” “Animal Like” and “Smoky” for agarwood oil and extract—woody, animalic and smoky. These describe a specific raw material; they are not a standard for the scent or longevity of every perfume marketed as oud. The Molecules review links sesquiterpenes to the scent of agarwood and also discusses 2-(2-phenylethyl)chromones. It associates a warm, balsamic and sweet aroma with burning agarwood; we do not automatically extend that description to the oil.

If oud appears in a note description, read it alongside the other notes and the manufacturer's explanation. The editorial team suggests recording your initial and later impressions separately; we do not assume a uniform development time or longevity for every oud fragrance.

Explore this topic in the guide: Amber in Perfume: How Does an Amber Accord Differ from Ambergris?.

Article 19 of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 provides that perfume and aromatic compositions and their raw materials are to be referred to in the list of ingredients by the terms “parfum” or “aroma”; requirements to list the relevant substances in Annex III separately also apply. The entry “parfum” alone does not reveal whether agarwood oil was used. This does not mean that no other information from the manufacturer can clarify the composition.

If the natural raw material itself matters to you, look for a specific explanation from the manufacturer about the material used and its origin. Record what the document actually confirms and what remains unclear. In this guide, bottle size, the sprayer or the scent development you observe are not treated as a test for determining the origin of the raw material.

In this article, we did not compare natural oil and accords in terms of stability, price, popularity or environmental impact. We suggest basing your choice on information about the specific product and your personal impression of its scent.

Australia's official CITES species list gives 16 February 1995 as the date when Aquilaria malaccensis was first listed. We use this document for the historical date. In the Annex to EU Regulation 2026/1383, Aquilaria spp. and Gyrinops spp. are shown in the Annex B column with the annotation “(II) #14”.

Annotation #14 covers parts and derivatives, subject to exceptions. One is for finished products packaged and ready for retail trade; this exception does not apply to wood chips, beads, prayer beads or carvings. A uniform rule that “a permit is required” therefore cannot be applied to all products, nor can the word “plantation” be treated as an adequate substitute for documentation. For questions about a specific shipment, the form of the raw material and the applicable documents, contact the responsible CITES authority. This text is not legal advice and does not confirm the legality of any specific product.

The 2022 review describes the use of agarwood in perfumery, as incense, and in cultural and religious ceremonies. This is broader context on its uses; we do not infer from it that every individual or an entire region observes the same daily ritual. Nor does it confirm that all Arabic oud perfumes are designed for the same climate or have the same longevity.

When choosing a specific fragrance, read its description. Do not treat a category or brand name alone as confirmation of the presence or quantity of natural oud material.

Explore this topic in the guide: Saffron in perfume and safranal.

The editorial team's suggestion for a first encounter: choose a description that includes other notes you recognise and find interesting, such as rose or vanilla. Record your initial and later impressions while following the specific product's directions for use. This is an exploration exercise, not a validated method for identifying a natural raw material; we do not prescribe a single mandatory waiting time.